Absinthe is a highly alcoholic, anise-flavored spirit distilled from herbs including wormwood. The flavor of Absinthe is similar to anise or licorise-flavored liqueurs, such as Sambuca or Ouzo, but somewhat more herbal, more bitter and more complex.

Prized for its pale emerald color, it is a powerful concentration of botanical oils, too bitter and potent to drink straight up. Absintheurs (absinthe drinkers) typically add three to five parts ice water slowly to absinthe, causing it to cloud or "louche" into a milky green or jade color. Sugar cubes are sometimes dissolved into the concoction through a slotted spoon. This preparation is often considered an important part of the ritual of absinthe drinking. The sugar cube can also be saturated with absinthe and ignited. Known as the Czech method, this elaborate flaumbet is considered by some, myself included, to be an inferior method of preparation that only imparts a flavor of burnt sugar into the absinthe, spoiling its natural flavors.

The healing properties of wormwood were well understood by the ancient Greeks, Romans and Egyptians, so it is no surprise that the first absinthe, produced in the late 1700's, was not a libation but a medicine. The invention has been credited to Swiss doctor Pierre Ordinaire who prescribed it as a cure-all tonic. Due to its high alcohol content, however, by the 1800's it had found its way into mainstream European society as a wildly popular recreational beverage, particularly among Parisian artists and writers. At the height of its popularity, absinthe was portrayed as a dangerously addictive, psychoactive drug that caused delirium, dementia and even homicidal tendencies. The ingredient wormwood, and its chemical compound thujone was eventually blamed for most of these alleged effects, and a host of horrific criminal incidents.

By 1915, absinthe had been banned in a number of European countries and the United States. Though widely vilified, there seems to be little credible evidence to suggest that absinthe is truly any more dangerous than any other variety of liquor. Instead, research suggests that the sudden, overwhelming popularity of absinthe may have opened the door for the irresponsible, unregulated and counterfeit production of absinthe, and that these bootleg varieties often contained dangerous adulterants and toxins that were likely to blame for the adverse heath effects suffered by early absintheurs.

It was more recently reported that thujone was thought to be a chemical cousin of THC. While the molecular structures appeared to be similar, further research dismissed the notion that thujone and marijuana had similar effects on the brain. On the other hand, thujone certainly has the potential to pose serious health risks to humans. This is a widely debated topic, however, most absinthe aficionados agree that the levels of thujone typically present in production quality absinthes are so very low that the alcohol content poses a far greater heath risk. They observe that one would have to be exposed to a substantially higher dose of thujone than is present in absinthe before one would suffer any ill effects, and that alcohol poisoning would set in long before thujone poisoning when it comes to absinthe. Still, professional research is spotty at best. I am no expert and no authority on medical heath, absinthe or chemistry. Before trying absinthe, one should do their own research and draw their own conclusions.

Do not attempt to make your own absinthe using so-called "kits" or other improvised recipes. These typically call for thujone extracts or essential oils diluted in other spirits. This can lead to death or serious injury. Thujone extracts are poisonous, and the manufacturing of absinthe is a complex and very sophisticated process. You can't just whip some up in your basement. Nor is absinthe meant to be drunk as a shot. It is significantly higher in alcohol than ordinary spirits. Your typical vodka or gin is usually around 80 proof, or 40% alcohol, while absinthe commonly runs up around 140 proof, or 70% alcohol. This is up in the range of Everclear, so drinking it straight can send you straight to the hospital. Before drinking absinthe it must first be diluted in ice water. It is then meant to be casually sipped like a fine scotch. When selecting a brand, it is best to do your homework and buy from a reputable distributor.

As a general rule, stay away from products from the Czech Republic, or products with alternate spellings like "absinth" without the "e". By and large, Czech "absinth" is not truly absinthe. Don't be fooled, spelling is not the only difference. Nearly all Czech "absinths" are oil mixes, or compound liquors, some of which even tend away from the anise flavor, a definitive quality of authentic absinthe. The claim is that these qualities are characteristic of traditional, Czech style absinth, however, there is no such thing as traditional Czech absinth; they weren't producing it until the 1990s.

Low-quality flavoring oils added to harsh, industrial-grade alcohol and artificial colorings; this is all it takes to swindle thousands of uninformed consumers out of a fabled dance with the Green Fairy. Don't be lured into catchy advertising or boasts about high levels of thujone. There is far more to a fine absinthe than just thujone, and thuone is not 'thee' reason that true absintheurs drink absinthe. There are numerous other fermented and distilled botanicals and herbs present in authentic absinthe that are equally prized for their subtle effects, the operative word here being 'subtle.' Save your money if you're in the market for hallucinations.

Contrary to popular myth, absinthe is not a hallucinogen. While it's certainly prized for the uniquely lucid quality of its effect, probably due to its high concentrations of various herbal compounds, it does not conjure green fairies, at least not on its own. This misconception is likely due to the fact that many nineteenth century artists and poets added Laudanum to their absinthe. Laudanum is a powerful, highly addictive opiate of the morphine family. At the time, it was a cheap, widely available medicine prescribed for everything from menstrual cramps to diarrhea, and just like absinthe, it quickly became popular with the working class, or anyone in search of a quick, cheap fix. Laudanum can cause hallucinations, the same green fairy hallucinations that were likely attributed to absinthe. Here again, absinthe has inherited a bad wrap.

While rather nice when diluted in Champagne, to fully appreciate absinthe, one should not mix it with other types of alcohol or drugs, and should enjoy it in a casual and relaxed environment wherein one is able to fully appreciate its subtlety. A modern-day absinthe revival began in the 1990s, as countries in the European Union began to reauthorize its manufacture and sale. In the united states, it enjoys a status similar to that of Cuban cigars. That is, it is not considered a controlled substance, but it cannot legally be imported.

sources: Good to the Last Drip - An Interview with Ted Breaux by Mark Miester, The History of Absinthe 2005 Liqueurs de France Ltd, Wikipedia, Don Walsh - 3dchem.com, The Wormwood Society

• August 28, 2005

• La Fée Parisian

  At best, La Fée Parisian is a passable absinthe. It has a bold, astringent aroma with hints of rosemary, sage and fennel. Of these 3, it louches most readily with just a few splashes of ice water. Made in Paris according to an original recipe, it sells for about $48 (excluding postage). The flavor is fresh and eucalyptusy, finishing with a clean, mineral quality. On the down side, like many modern absinthes, it uses artificial colorings and additives that can give some people headaches. With it's glossy, clever marketing, that would seemingly most appeal to an un-savvy, Nouveau-Goth sort of consumer, La Fée is ultimately a disappointment that does not approach the quality or character of a fine, traditional absinthe.

• Deva 70

  For a few dollars less, Deva 70 seems a better buy. It's slightly stronger (abv), with a subtler, minty aroma with hints of tyme, ginger and lemon. It's made in Barcelona and has a crisp, birch-like flavor that affects the palate with a slight, anesthetic quality which eventually subjugates the sense, clarifying them without clouding them. I was actually able to read some Raymond Chandler after 3 glasses without losing my place. Try that after 3 Glenlivets. Good stuff.

• Edouard 72

  For beaucoup bucks (about $100 sans shipping) you can pick up an even stronger brew. I am speaking, of course, of Ted Breaux's Absinthe Edouard 72 by Jade Liqueurs. After reading an article about its strict authenticity, and the complex methods of reverse-engineering that were employed to arrive at the recipe, I had to try it. At twice the price, I was half expecting an amorous, Barbara Eden-like absinthe fairy to come billowing out of the bottle in a plume of green smoke. When it looked, smelled and tasted similar to other brands I had tried, I was struck with a bit of buyer's remorse, but only at first.

  I have since decided that to appreciate absinthe, one has to appreciate subtlety. The real cork (as opposed to a screw cap) and wax seal is a very nice touch, and alludes well to the high quality of what lies within. The aroma is deeply more complex than my runner ups, and seemingly better balanced. Yes, you can smell the alcohol, but it doesn't jump out of the glass. The botanical bouquet is mysterious, to my novice nose anyway, but altogether pleasant and strangely familiar.

  The flavor is equally complex, making for an absinthe that tastes as good as it smells. The aroma is vaguely fruity, the flavor hinting of fresh basil, but both are so complex they're difficult to quantify. What isn't hard to distinguish is that this absinthe is easily the best of the 3. I'm not just saying that because Ted edited Sip of Seduction, which was kind enough to plug Absinthe Radio.

Betina, Sip of Seduction's illustrious author, is always raving about Suisse La Bleue, which is next on my wish list. Betina has a new edition to Sip of Seduction in the works. Be sure and look for it in 2007!

By the way, the laws governing absinthe vary from place to place. Be sure you are familiar with them and drink responsibly.

• October 15, 2006

• Clandestine Suisse La Bleue # 2, Betina Elixirs

Step aside green fairy. Meet the blue fairy. At last, my Suisse La Bleue #2 from Betina Elixirs has arrived. The custom label choices added an element of fun, and only deepened the mystery and intrigue surrounding this clandestine variety from the Val-de-Travers region of Neuchâtel, Switzerland, famed for its clocks, and as the birthplace of absinthe. Uncorking the green tea tinted potion (more commonly crystal clear) releases a permeating bouquet of wild fennel with poignant wisps of vanilla and sweet, Cavendish tobacco. The iridescent louche initially manifests a mother of pearl quality that gradually grows smokier and reminiscent of winter storm clouds. The diluted nose is a fleeting alchemy of peppermint, juniper, ripe cherry and chamomile. It washes over the tongue with a tart earthiness that quickly gives way to the clean, crisp flavor of new fallen snow. The finish is long, dry and woody, dissipating with the delightful bitterness of cocoa and clove. The lower alcohol content seems to brighten the botanicals, and one can better appreciate their subtle flavors and effects. The apparent purity of this absinthe is unrivaled among the brands I've sampled. It's dreamy, utterly drinkable and was the perfect accompaniment to a lovely autumn afternoon. I'm curious to see how it compares with mass-market variety La Bleues, which are purportedly hit or miss. Though shrouded in impenetrable mystery, this genre definitely warrants the attention of any serious absintheure.

More reviews coming soon...

Wally Stephens

"Work is the curse of the drinking classes." - OSCAR WILDE